After surviving our first winter in Montana, we anxiously looked forward to summer and all the activities the area had to offer. The temperatures this June week were warm and the mountains were coming alive. Every mammal had their adorable offspring following close by. The melting snow on the mountain tops caused the rivers and creeks to rapidly flow. A multitude of green colors dusted with specks of pink, yellow and blue, carpeted the landscape. Clouds couldn’t be found amidst the turquoise sky. The scenery was breath taking. This was the Montana we moved for!
While Dwynn was on call working over the weekend, I wanted to take advantage of the beautiful weather. The forecast predicted clear skies and temperatures in the 80’s. The kids and I decided to take our first overnight Montana wildlife backpacking trip adventure. Alex was in California visiting friends so he was unable to join us.
Friends often spoke of a series of small pristine lakes in the mountains that are fed only by a stream of waterfalls due to the melting snow. The only way to approach the lakes is by foot. We believed the trail was only a few miles long, meandering through the mountains which would take approximately two and a half hours to reach. Camping is primitive so we needed to bring the necessary supplies.
Figuring since we now live here and we’d go camping frequently, I decided to invest in decent backpacking equipment. Off we went to the sporting goods store to purchase our new gear. I bought tents, a small propane grill, sleeping bags, a water purifier, a bear bag and a can of bear spray.
A bear bag is a small canvas bag that cinches closed with long ropes. You fill the bag with all your food and all the clothes that have food on them. Then far, far away from your camping site, you whip it over the highest branch you can find. This will hopefully keep the bears out of the food and far, far away from your tent.
Bear spray is a small red can that looks exactly like a fire extinguisher. It’s filled with a high pressure pepper spray. This and a gun are the best friends you can have while traipsing through the woods. Now, the problem with bear spray is that you have to get uncomfortably close to the face of an approaching bear for it to be effective. Then, if you have enough forethought you need to know which way the wind is blowing!
Our food is packed, the gear is loaded and off we go. The sun is shining and the temperature is in the upper 80’s. It takes us close to an hour to drive to the trail head. When there, the three kids and I jump out of the car and begin our highly anticipated adventure. We don’t walk even ten feet and are greeted by the largest grizzly bear we've ever seen. Glaring at us, the bear stands up tall and stretches out both arms. At first frozen, we gain composure and then all of us RUN back into the car. I’m outta here! During the hour drive home, the kids convince me to come back tomorrow and try again.
The next day, we reload the car and I load my gun. The temperature seems warmer and the sky is still crystal blue. On the way we decide to pick up lunch so we can immediately start hiking. My lunch choice happened to be an Indian taco. This is a fried piece of flat dough, similar to a pita filled with meat, chili beans, onions and cheese – my first mistake. The kids chose a healthier selection; I taught them well.
As we drive again up the mountain to reach the trail head, so does the temperature. The car’s outside thermostat is reading 101*F. When we arrive, we yell and sing – this is best defense against startling a bear so they keep their distance. With our gear strapped on our backs, my gun in my pants (girls, you’d be so proud) off we go, again.
After just starting this three hour trek, I realize, boy am I out of shape! The first 75% of the trail is nothing but switchbacks. An hour in, I get the worst doubling over cramps topped off by diarrhea. I don’t need to get into the details but when you’re backpacking in the middle of NOWHERE, this is not fun! Thirty minutes later, I start vomiting. The kids thought I was gonna die! I think my swollen sausage fingers did ‘em in. I’m sure the Indian taco I ate before my jaunt, the extreme heat, elevation and the tight gun belt all contributed to my discomfort. The higher and higher we hiked up the mountain, the boys kept taking things out of my backpack to lighten my load. The trail WOULDN’T end! After four agonizing hours we sent Bryce, since he’s the loudest and least likely to startle a bear, ahead to see how much further the trail went. Problem now is, I couldn’t turn around and make it another four hours back and it would be getting dark.
Fortunately cell service worked so we called Dwynn. His advice was to continue as long as I took a break every 30-35 minutes. I almost died just from laughing – more like every four minutes!
After five grueling hours, we finally reached the most beautiful, untouched mountain lake we have ever seen. This small round lake is totally enclosed by a ring of mountains with a large waterfall. The water is so clean, you can drink it directly from the lake (we purified it anyway).
As we set-up camp, we realized we purchased the wrong type of fuel for the stove. Being prepared I also brought matches. Our dinner was cooked over a fire while our collected wood was still DRY! As part of our preparation, we checked the weather forecast and we were assured of 0% chance of rain, NOT. The weather was beautiful through sunset at 10:30 pm. We dressed for bed and entered our tents, then, the thunder and lightning started. The hail rocks didn’t start pummeling for at least another hour. At midnight, just as my phone was dying, Dwynn called to warn me about an approaching electrical storm and micro wind bursts.
Torrential showers were pouring down on us. I was terrified we’d be washed into the lake. Trying to maintain my facade of calmness for the kid's sake, I quickly resumed my vomiting, in our campsite right next to our tent door. Chloe’s and my “rainproof” tent stayed relatively dry compared to Russ and Bryce’s. One can not imagine how BRIGHT lightning is and how LOUD thunder is ricocheting endlessly in a small enclosed circle of mountains. Something everyone truly should experience!
Now worried that a whole bear family will find the fresh feast I just left them outside my tent, I faced the longest night of my life. During my only hour of sleep, I dreamt of Advil and what I could bribe each child with, in exchange for a scalp and foot massage.
At 4:30 am, the sun was shining and it was beautiful again. Since the firewood we collected was soaking wet, we ate granola bars, packed up and headed back down the mountain, thankfully uneventful, never to return again (for me at least)!
When we go hiking or camping, I always make these granola bars. They are far better tasting than store bought and all natural. This is a much better alternative than an Indian Taco before a long backpacking trip!
Granola Bars
2 cups Rolled Oats
½ cup Wheat Germ
1 cup Sliced Almonds
½ cup Sunflower Seeds
¼ cup packed Brown Sugar
½ cup Honey
2 tablespoons Butter
2 teaspoons of Vanilla
¼ teaspoon Cinnamon
½ teaspoon Sea Salt
½ cup Chocolate Chips
½ cup Butterscotch Chips
¾ cup of chopped mixed Dried Fruit
Butter 9x9” square pan with 1 tablespoon of butter. Set aside.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sprinkle oats, wheat germ, almonds and sunflower seeds onto ungreased cookie sheet. Bake for 15 minutes or until lightly browned, stirring often. Reduce heat to 300 degrees.
Combine brown sugar, honey, 1 tablespoon butter, vanilla, cinnamon and salt in a large saucepan over medium heat. Stir and cook until all the sugar is dissolved. Immediately add the oat mixture, chocolate and butterscotch chips and dried fruit. Stir to combine.
Place combined mixture in buttered pan and press down evenly. Bake for 25 minutes. Allow to cool before cutting into bars. ENJOY!